Tips for a Great Shave!
By Buck Williams – Master
Barber
http://www.men-uusa.com
Proper
shaving techniques, quality
products and post-shaving skin
care can help you look and feel
your best. A good, close shave
followed by the right facial
wash and after shave moisturizer
products go hand in hand to
achieve optimum skin health.
And, it can turn a chore into
a pleasant morning ritual.
Top
10 Shaving Tips:
Warning
- this is the long answer -
but isn't a couple of minutes
of reading worth it? After all,
your face is the first thing
they notice......
1.
Make Sure Your Beard is Thoroughly
Wet
One of the keys to a great close
shave without irritation or
skin rash is to make sure your
beard is thoroughly wet. Facial
hair will absorb moisture up
to 30% of its volume. Hair swollen
with water becomes quite weak
and therefore easier to cut.
Showering before shaving is
the ideal way to ensure you
beard is properly moistened.
If a shower is not possible,
rinse your face and then apply
a warm moistened towel to your
face for at least a couple of
minutes. This is the technique
that barbers use. Never shave
cold or apply shaving products
to a dry face.
2.
Use a Quality Shaving Cream
Use a shaving cream that has
a high concentration of lubricants
(e.g. silicones) and moisturizers.
The best shaving creams create
a rich creamy lather and do
not foam up like the cheaper
drug store brands. The less
"foaming" in the shave
cream the better, as it is what
is in contact with the skin
and beard that matters - all
else is wasted. Less resistance,
less irritation and less nicks
also mean a longer lasting blade!
While the primary function of
the shaving cream is to lubricate
your face so that the razor
will glide smoothly and effortlessly
across the surface, it also
serves to lock the moisture
into the whiskers, keeping them
soft and upright, primed for
the cut. The ideal scenario
is to leave the shaving cream
on your face for at least a
minute before you begin cutting,
so that the beard is as soft
and wet as possible.
3.
A Shaving Brush is One of the
Best Tools
One of the best tools you can
use to achieve the optimum shave
is a shaving brush (as top barbers
do). A shaving brush does a
couple of things. First, it
helps raise the hair so that
a closer cut is possible. Second,
it helps create a rich creamy
lather with the shaving cream
that stays close to the skin.
And, finally, it helps remove
dead skin cells (exfoliation)
which reduces the chance of
blemishes, razor bumps and also
helps the skin look and feel
smooth and healthy. Always look
for a shaving brush with bristles
that have the right balance
between softness (to create
a rich creamy that stays close
to the skin) and resistance
to raise the beard (making a
closer cut easier!)
4.
Apply the shaving cream using
the brush in a circular motion
ending in an upward stroke to
help lift the beard up and away
from the face.
5.
Use a Quality Razor and Change
the Blades
Always use a good quality sharp
razor blade. Be sure the blade
is sharp. You're not just cutting
off hair, you're also scraping
off up to two layers of surface
skin when you shave. A dull
blade is more traumatic to the
skin, making your face feel
scratchy and look blotchy. Depending
on the toughness of your beard,
change the blade somewhere between
every three and every ten shaves,
if you shave every day. Two
weeks is too long to go without
changing blades. Regardless
of the number of shaves, if
the blade is dulled, ditch it.
As
to which brand of razor to use
- we think you can't go wrong
with any of the Gillette Mach
series. Of course there are
very high quality and expensive
razors available at specialty
retailers that you may want
to try.
Rinse
your blade under hot water before
you begin to shave and after
every few swipes. This removes
the accumulated shaving cream,
whiskers, and skin goop. For
a really close shave, remoisten
the section you just shaved,
by spreading a thin layer of
lather from another area of
your face, and then swiping
that area again. Keep everything
moist. (Note: The use of hot
water here is to help lubricate,
has nothing to do with "killing
bacteria.")
6. Use the Razor Properly
Ideally shave in the direction
of the beard growth. Start with
the sides, then the moustache
area and last the chin. The
chin hairs are the toughest,
so this allows them the most
time to soften under the shave
cream.
Shaving
against the direction of hair
growth gives a closer shave,
but has two drawbacks:
-
A.
It's a good way to donate
blood, and
-
B.
You run a high risk of cutting
off a hair below skin level,
causing an ingrown hair
(razor bumps) - the whisker
grows into the surrounding
tissue instead of out of
the pore, resulting in inflammation
and possible infection.
To
avoid these shaving problems,
again, shave "with the
grain" (that is, in the
direction your hair grows.)
Each person's facial hair has
its own growth pattern. If you
are unsure of the direction
of your beard, let it grow for
a day or two and you'll see
it.
7.
If you want an even Closer Shave
If you wish to achieve an even
closer shave (as many barbers
do) apply some more lather from
your brush (add more cream if
necessary) to the areas you
wish to shave again. This is
one of the extra advantages
of using a brush. For most guys,
re-shaving certain areas with
the grain should do the job.
Professional barbers, by the
way, usually first shave with
the grain, and then re-shave
going sideways - but they're
trained professionals!
But,
don't over shave. Too much shaving
will cause skin irritation and
rashes.
Rinse
the blade thoroughly before
you put it away. (The water
temperature isn't going to have
any impact on bacteria; you're
rinsing the blade to get rid
of hairs, shaving cream, oils,
and gunk, not to kill bacteria.
You'd need to boil the razor
for that, which is not necessary.)
Do NOT wipe the blade with a
tissue or towel--that will just
dull it faster.
8.
Cleanse and Soothe After Shaving
After shaving, when the skin
is most vulnerable (remember,
you've just scraped off up to
2 layers of surface skin!),
rinse the face with warm water
and use a facial wash that has
a high concentration of tea
tree oil (a natural antiseptic
that is ideal to help cleanse
and protect from spots and shaving
rash) and witch hazel (for its
soothing, healing and astringent
properties).
9.
Rinse with the coolest water
that is comfortable and pat
dry with a clean towel. (Don't
rub! Just pat)
10.
Finish off with an Aftershave
Moisturizer.
Shaving can remove up to two
layers of skin. There is no
other regular activity that
does this, which is why it is
so important to use a good quality
moisturizer after shaving. An
after shave moisturizer designed
as an after shave balm and moisturizer
in one, is the ideal way to
replace lost moisture and soothe
the skin. And, be sure to use
one made just for guys - these
formulas are designed so that
they are not greasy, absorb
quickly and dry with a matte
finish so that your face doesn't
look shiny. Typically moisturizers
made for women are too greasy
as men tend to have not only
thicker skin but also oiler
skin than women due to men's
larger sebaceous glands. The
best aftershave moisturizers
not only replace lost moisture
and soothe, but also have ingredients
that will cool and refresh the
skin.
Following
these 10 shaving tips should
help you achieve optimum skin
health, avoid shaving problems
and help you look and feel your
best.
About
The Author
Buck
Williams is a master barber
with over 15 years of barbering
and product development experience
for premier barbershops, salons
and manufacturers. Most recently,
Buck has appeared on TV as a
makeover guru, and behind the
scenes on TV and film production
sets and magazine features helping
actors and sports celebrities
look their best. Buck’s
passion is helping men look
and feel their best and believes
that a smooth close shave and
after shave skin care is so
important to the health of your
skin and the impression you
make.
This
article on Shaving Tips and
Techniques is reprinted with
permission.
©
2004 – Avatar International
LLC.
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